The conflagration that drives away evil spirits

From Oct. 10 to the early morning hours of Oct. 17 in Donggang, Pingtung County the triennial Wang Ye boat festival will take place. During the Ching dynasty (1644-1912), Donggang was one of three main commercial ports in Taiwan. Today the town of 50,000 remains an important center for fishing, especially for the prized blue fin tuna, but its best days seem long behind it.
Around 80 temples dot the town, 32 of which are dedicated to the Wang Ye. Donglong Temple, the boat festival sponsor, is one of the largest and oldest. Its story is worthy of a Hollywood movie.

One day in 1706 a bundle of wood washed to shore near Donggang with timber inscribed by Lord Wen Hong. Locals, who revered Wen Hong as a spiritual guide and protector of fishermen, built a temple from the available wood. Miraculously there was just enough for the job and not a piece left over.

More miracles were to come. In 1894, the waters from a massive tidal wave flooded the town. Distraught villagers rowed out to the temple to save what they could. Finding Wen Hong’s statue had survived the rising waters, several men cradled it in their arms and carried it back outside. No sooner had they exited the temple than the roof came crashing to the ground. Afterwards, Wen Hong instructed his followers on the best place to rebuild his temple. In all the years since this site has never flooded.

At least that is the temple committee’s version of things. Some historians, however, claim that the temple began as a family shrine. By the 19th century it had become one of the largest centers of Wang Ye worship in the south. The current building likely hails from an 1887 reconstruction, though a major refurbishing from 1977-1984 gave it the multi-story look people see today.

Donglong Temple began to sponsor boat-burning festivals some time in the early 20th century. Originally, the festival was held around the Dragon Boat Festival in early summer, the customary time for plague-expelling rituals. These days, however, it is set in autumn with the date decided, or divined really, a year earlier through the casting of divination blocks.

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